Sunday, January 27, 2008

Istanbul




Sultanhamet Mosque, aka "Blue Mosque"


Istanbul, not Constantinople- the port of entry for my voyages through Eastern Europe. A city with a history so vast that no amount of Wikipedia-ing could cover. I arrived the last week of August, summers' tail end refusing to release its' grip, warming my toes while I eat dondurma (Turkish ice cream) in the square next to the Blue Mosque. Wandering around the complex, everyone is welcome, Muslim or not. Men arrive exhausted from their days' work, and calmly perform ablutions before entering to pray. I step inside with them, working my way through the heavy cloths that shield the outside light from sneaking in. After a few steps inside, I stop in my tracks and look up to the glorious ceiling and chandelier. It is crowded, and groups of the faithful bow their heads to the ground in unison, a perfect harmony of bodies in motion.




Topkapı Palace

This palace was the residence of the Ottoman Sultans for 400 years. Walking in during the touristic time I did (late August), the palace was packed to the brim with bus loads of Chinese tourists with over-sized hats, Turkish families taking their children there for the first time, and backpackers getting their last days of vacation in before school starts.

As I wandered through the palace grounds, the musty aroma of antiquity tickled my nose, and I could only imagine what it must have been like to be here during times when the palace was fully operational. Servants, Craftsmen, Concubines, Eunuchs, all swirling together in a dance of power.

"Basilica Cistern"


The sun had beaten down on me all morning and afternoon, and August is no month to mess around with in Turkiye when it comes to heat. This cistern built by the Romans is where many go to escape for a while.

Exhausted, I walked through the heavy doors leading to a stairwell that eased my weariness step by step. When I got to the landing, I saw this:



It was so beautiful. This pasted snapshot does no justice. Everything went quiet. All I could hear were footsteps and whispering, even though no one was required to lower their voice. It was as if the atmosphere and lighting demanded it so. I slowly trotted forward, and every few steps I would walk into darkness, not to be seen by my fellow travelers. People fumbled with their cameras as I did, trying to capture it the way they knew was impossible. Many, like me; decided to take a few shots, and just give up. No point in fighting it, just sit down on the cold, ancient stone and relax.